In Conclusion...

It feels weird to be back- Foreign even. But I know that in time my tempurpedic lifestyle and I will return back to routines and standard operating procedures. My Hong Kong adventure was fun, new, and interesting, but more importantly it reinforced my feeling that I am awakening. I feel like… when you stretch and take that first huge yawn as you get out of bed; that first rush of blood coursing through your body that lets you know you are not going to fall back to sleep and hit the snooze button ONE MORE TIME.

I had set forth without committing myself to definite goals. Yes, I wanted to eat the food and talk with the people, but I was not going to limit myself by what I would and would not do. Our class was an impressive lesson on modern Chinese politics, economy, and culture taught by from a free Chinese native perspective. Using a TRUE open mind, this was allowed to challenge my thoughts and views about the “Communist” country. The food was close to what I crazily expected, but still a thrilling adventure unto itself. My mom said it best “I never would have dreamt that you, the pickiest kid EVER when it comes to food, who only ate chicken tenders and quesadillas, would eat duck’s blood and frog, and chicken feet”. At the time I thought nothing of it, but now I am delighted to know I am not that close minded juvenile American stereotype anymore. I am even more excited that I enjoyed some of those foods!

“A good student can learn in the worst situations.”

My time there was not free of slip-ups or drama. We all make mistakes, but the only tragedy of mistakes is not learning from them. I won’t say that in hindsight I would do anything differently; that is no way to live life. Instead I have better insight into other cultures as well as my own. My hunger for traveling has only grown and I do not feel that there is anything that can persuade me otherwise.

Spending time in Hong Kong has also made me think critically about my international relation with them as well as my own country. I am an American, but I am also a world citizen. A confusing mixture to explore the world with, but it is important to retain both identities. I think of my country as my family, and the world as my friends. A fine balance of zeal and empathy are crucial for both. We cannot so quickly betray one for the other, but we certainly CANNOT forsake our family. WE are imperfect so when your friends betray you, and sadly we all do, who will you run to? With that said you cannot claim one culture is “better”. We can only try to comment objectively on the differences and which ones we prefer or which ones we don’t. Everything is relative.

All irksome ideas, thoughts, and meanings aside…I loved Hong Kong and encourage anyone to go. It is great for first time travelers, such as myself, or someone who has trekked the planet. Food, people, nightlife, beauty, culture. You’ve read the rest of this blog… need I say more?!

HK #5 Lamma Island

June 21, 2010

First of all, Special thanks to the staff blog photographer Sureena Johl for taking all the photos that have appeared in my blog…except the first one.

I understand that my “blog”, for lack of a better word, is in essence the ramblings of a very polarizing world citizen. You either love it or hate it, as is expected. I may not talk about the gorgeous skyline of Hong Kong harbour, or how weird it is that everyone is speaking Chinese or something, or how “the food is so different”. I see these as topics that anyone can come here and observe. I would rather not waste our time together writing about the most simplistic sights and senses. Instead I try to focus outward on a critique of where I am and who I am, along in conjunction with the culture I have immersed myself in.

A few days ago our group along with Ellen, Christy, Horace and his brother, and the Hong Kong girls took a very nice ferry ride to Lamma island. When we docked I felt like we had journeyed to another land. Part Apocalypse now, part Fantasy Island. We got off the boat and walked through the gauntlet of fish markets, restaurants, and snack shops that lined the shoreline of that harbor. When we reached our restaurant it had that familiar look of large round tables with place settings and a large lazy Susan in the middle. Once again, we were served food after food after food. Now knowing how the Chinese do it, I paced myself in order to savor every last dish. However, when I got to the garlic covered scallops…oh man…words cannot describe. The garlic was cooked for a long time and the flavored was very mellow, but still rich. This allowed for copious amounts to be loaded on to the half shelled scallops with noodles placed in the shell. I have never seen an unshelled scallop and was not sure what this clam type food was. After tasting I knew immediately. I also knew, that I wanted another. The meat of the scallop was still connected to the half shell and when it was torn apart and mixed with a generous dose of garlic and some noodles. It was a buttery, rich, and delicious dish. One of the best I have had, and surprisingly simple. There were two left on the table so I grabbed one, leaving the other for manners.

While at lunch the Hong Kong girls asked me a series of questions varying from “What is ___ like in America?” to questions about my relationship with my loving, amazing, and beautiful girlfriend Camy (Shout out to you Cam). The girls are very interested in “America” and it appears that most of what they, and other countries, know about us is from Television or Movies. They talked about how foreign (Sean’s and mine) eyes are more beautiful and golden eyelashes etc etc. It is interesting to here how much Chinese and Japanese want to look like Americans, but then I think of some American’s who do their makeup and styles to look like they are Asian. Andrew coined this view of America as the archetype for trends and styles as “Sex and the City Syndrome”…I hope HBO does not sue me for that. One sociological trend that interested us was the desire for girls in China to have very fair complexions. They drank a barely tea because it makes their skin lighter. One of the girls in our group, who is Indian (shout outs to Sureena), was asked if she was interested in face bleach. MJ jokes aside, it was an interesting lesson.

The hike took several hours through the hills of Lamma. The view was spectacular, and at one point we crossed a ridge and was presented with a panorama of a huge coal power plant. Beauty and the Beast one might say. From there we continued on to a small beach area where our group parted ways. Three stayed and swam while the Hong Kong girls, Andrew, and my-self continued on. The remainder of our trip into town and through the shops was peppered with the occasional question about my relationship with Camy. What is hard to describe to the typical American became more taxing to the Hong Kong girls. I do not view Camy and myself as the normal relationship in America. With modesty aside I would say that ours is ideal. I was not sure whether to tell these girls who were so eager to learn of America about what a relationship SHOULD BE, or what it IS in America. Luckily they asked very direct question about how long we see each other a week etc. When I mentioned marriage I learned a VERY interesting fact. In Hong Kong it is customary to not get married before 30. We asked why and the girls explained it is about getting your own life in order before you bring someone else into it. I could not argue with their rationale, but told them that in America some people rush into things when they are young (and sometimes when they are old) without that kind of thought. I would have expected that thought process in Japan, but not in China…even though we are in “Hong Kong”. All in all, the day was a great adventure in more ways than one. I hoped that my answers to the girls’ questions were both positive and accurate. Many of you know I am a sarcastic cynic when it comes to a great many things, but it was hard to complain about the things I usually hate in America like relationships (or lack thereof), politics, and the media. Call it a new found respect and appreciation for the freedom of my society, or blind nationalistic pride, but either way I am glad I have the choice.

Hong Kong #4 (My Theme cont.)

June 17, 2010

The last glass makes a thump on the table. The condensation of the cold beer builds up and soaks through the cheap cardboard coaster beneath it. It’s hot and humid outside, but the fans spin slowly and cool down the ex-pat bar just the right amount. I sit across from my newly found comrade, Adrian Wong. Adrian is an American Citizen who was raised in Hong Kong, but educated in Washington State. As we talk about our views on politics, society, the youth, and the correct treatment of employees- I hope. I hope that he is the type of World Citizen that we are creating. I hope that The Honors Program is doing this as well. I hope I am too.

The day began with an EARLY trip to the Dragonboat Festival. Our consort, guide, and friend Horace is taking us to see his son compete in the event. A long bus ride takes us back to Sai Kung. What a few days ago was a small fishing village is now an intense display of competition, culture, and sheer numbers. The boardwalk railings remind me of a rock concert with people pushing to the edge to see the races finish line. Over and over again, about 12 heats of 7 boats each race competitively race to the buoys marking the end of their race. We wander around and discover a tent of prepared pigs ready for BBQ, and I thought “now I’m hungry”

Keeping in tradition our food was 1 part delicious, 1 part exotic and 1 part educational. We all walked a little bit to another dim sum seafood restaurant. Much of the food was familiar: fried rice, bao, noodles, beef, beef balls, dumplings etc. Much was not: pigeon eggs, chicken feet, curried squid, sweet buns with lotus seed filling, etc. Chicken feet have never interested me, but they looked delicious! It was when they were on my plate I realized…there are bones in this (duh). Thinking that the whole foot was to be consumer at once I bit down through one of the phalanges and chewed the meat, bone, and everything else. We did the same thing with dried shrimp heads a week earlier. After swallowing chunks of broken bone and meat I was informed that you debone the foot and only eat the meet. “Ohhhh” I said while drinking copious amounts of tea to wash down shards of bone (probably still lodged somewhere inside of me). Take two: chicken feet to bear their titular taste, CHICKEN! Not bad, particularly with the zesty sauce they were served with. With that said, one was enough for me. The pigeon egg in dumplings were also quite good. This could be because of a fact that Horace told me. “Highest in cholesterol”. No wonder they taste so rich… maybe only two then.

After the meal, our group split and parted ways. Some went to a tailor, some to a museum, but I took a car ride with the Wong family. Horace, his wife Mary, and their Son Adrian all accompanied me down the eastern coast of Hong Kong and through the eastern tunnel onto a part of the island I have never been to. The ride itself was possibly the most interesting car ride I have ever had. The Wong’s talked about taxes in Hong Kong (or lack thereof), differences in cars in America, and family life. The most interesting fact was Mary’s comment on how she thinks “American women are treated better than anyone in the world, Then Hong Kong.” I told her I think many would disagree, but I believe that she is right. She spoke freely and openly about rituals in the family and her beliefs which only proved her theory of the fair and open treatment of women in Hong Kong. Sometimes the conversation took a sitcom type of turn with the two disagreeing like banter from “Everybody Loves Raymond”. I was also taught about women being in charge of making kimchee, a preserved Chinese cabbage (originally from Korea). I was told that it was first a ceremony given to the eldest woman in the house as a way to give them SOME responsibility, but not the truly important ones like money and so on. I will let you think if America has any parallel traditions.

After a timely car ride we arrived at Times Square in Hong Kong. Horace described it as being VERTICLE as opposed to NYC’s flatter Times Square…and it was! Adrian and I got out of the car leaving Horace and Mary to drive home. We walked through the square and into the large shopping center. We then walked through the area known as Causeway Bay to Wan Chai. While passing by a Chinese medicine tea shop Adrian stopped and explained the purpose to me. Various tea leaves, herbs, and turtle shell jelly made up various concoctions to cure ailments. He ordered a tea for clear skin and anti-aging. Before downing the entire thing he told me of the bad taste and wished himself good luck. He did not urge me to try, but…I had to. I ordered the same tea medicine, but the lady added some cooler tea to the piping hot batch. I guess she didn’t think the American could take it…and with it being hot and humid, she would be right. I took the small bowl in hand and in 3 or 4 large gulps it was done. Not a horrible taste, but anything for health, right? We continued to walk and talk and found ourselves next to a bar that Adrian introduced as a building that used to be a pawn shop. He asked if I wanted to go in and, my taste for beer notwithstanding, I had to check it out. We walked up the narrow staircase as I talked about how it seems like a cool local place. We emerge to the main bar on the second story right as Adrian informs me that expatriots, expats, have taken over the place. Immediately, one two three FOUR FIVE white people sitting in various parts of the bar. We walked around first. The establishment reminds me of something from the 1930’s and a mix of New Orleans and England. Very weird. Very perfect. We sat down and ordered a pint of our respective beers. We began to talk about culture in Hong Kong, America, and business. It was here we began to speak our minds about HOW to do business and more importantly HOW to treat people who work for you. We then talked about possible future interests in business. I told Adrian that I really love learning about or doing anything. He described my fascination as a thirst for knowledge, and not just in business. We also talked about the difference in Hong Kong/Chinese mentalities and American/Western. He explained the unfair treatment of local Chinese by companies who also hire expats. We realized that the different societies grew from different thoughts. Thousands of years of living by filial piety and paternalism has created a suppressive mentality in many Chinese. On the other hand, America’s founding was nothing less than a bloody war (or two or three) against an Empire for more economic and political freedom. The social development of America instilled values of independence, individualism and loyalty to oneself.

We may be businessmen by trade, but both have that thirst for knowledge, (com)passion, and desire to ‘live the world’. This mix creates something inestimable … a ‘human respect’ (NOT a superficial sympathy). After another pint of beer and further discussion by Adrian about the importance of Hong Kong students to learn how to speak English well. I asked Adrian “What do you think could change the Chinese[human] mentality or improve the probability of Chinese/[anyone] to compete?” Before I answer, there is a theme with me. I don’t believe in politics. To fervently declare loyalty to a “party” is callous and pedantic. There is one thing that can fix our worldly “problems”, but we waste trillions on in petty school-ground bickering. There is one tonic, one salve, one vaccination-

What did Adrian and I say? “Education.”

P.S. I apologize for the political charge of this entry. After 20 hours of lecture on Chinese policy...it get's stuck in your head :)

#3

Tuesday June 15, 2010

What to say. I feel like my last post lost some of that journalistic flare that I have never learned. Much to my chagrin, it was more of a blog than a story. However, I have approached this article with a renewed sense of vigor and steadfast dedication to provide ALL OF YOU with the scoop of Hong Kong knowledge that, in my heart, I had promised.

What do The Gate of Wisdom, Nobel Prizes, and exile have to with each other. The CUHK Library! Several days ago we ventured into the stacks. Their library is probably of equal size to our own back in Sacramento State, but cries what all libraries should. Inside we were shown two rooms dedicated to the Nobel Prize for Dr. Charles Kao and a banned Chinese Poet. First, Kao was the scientist who invented the fiber-optic cable, and essentially made the free flow of information on the internet possible. The internet, which I think is the greatest human invention, has been instrumental in toppling tyranny and spreading knowledge worldwide. Yes, we may overindulge in stupid content on it, but to most of the world it is the only way to stay connected and learn of what’s going on. Another was for a poet who was banned in China for poems that clearly denounced the Chinese government. He leaves his brushes, pens, glasses, and works in the library for safe keeping (they are all alarmed).

Several days later we took a trip to GeoPark, a park of geological formations, rocks, and a giant dam. Dam jokes withstanding, it was a great trip. On this trip I met Ellen and Christy Mak; a mother and her 13 year old daughter who plays the violin, piano and electric guitar. I need not say which instrument we bonded over more, but the conversations were pleasant and a good idea of what life is like for a conservative Chinese girl growing up in Hong Kong. I DO have to say that Ellen is a prime example of how a parent should act. Her outgoing nature and appreciation for worldwide things was only shadowed by the readily apparent love for her daughter. We talked about living life and as a young person she said “you have to be silly sometimes”, but “not all the time” I added. We laughed and talked about ‘living life’. She went to the University of Southern Carolina and has already immersed herself in American culture. [Could her blend of two different societies be a part to her maternal paradigm?] She believed that her daughter needs to experience life not only in Hong Kong, but with people from other countries as well. She also spoke the phrase “[You cannot live a perfect life in this world]” or “[this world is made to live a perfect life]” or something to that effect. My soul skipped a beat when hearing this obviously simple, but life giving phrase. This world is not meant for perfection. This still echoes in my mind on so many levels. Greg mentioned to us that he “does not drink because he loves his body too much” but I must say that “I drink because I love life too much”. There are too many things on this planet to experience without us sheltering ourselves. Like Ellen said “we have to be silly a little while” and live life outside the box. I try to live my life as an auteur, knowing that my actions, mistakes, and triumphs are my own little works of art that cannot be changed (Justine knows EXACTLY what I am talking about). That is why while I am here I will eat and try anything. I may not be used to it, I may not even like it, but what will my life look like when I die? A cheap Kinkade’esque representation of what I think life should be or that teeth grinding annoyance that truly is the human experience… there really is no choice.

Enough of my attempt to transcend the fact that I am a 22 year old living for 21 days in the worlds 36th largest city. Hong Kong is amazing. Our journey to Victoria Peak was a journey to another world. Above the cloud cover and fog, the humidity must have reached 90-100%, but the temperature dropped a good 3-4 degrees Celsius along with our visibility. One day earlier, we took a trip to Sai Kung, a fishing town, and had the pleasant experience of trying the authentic version of many of our Chinese favorites. Chow mein (noodles), Mongolian beef, fried rice, lemon chicken, prawns, clams, and steamed vegetables with butter were all piled onto our lazy Susan in a tiny restaurant. The food was plentiful as was the conversation and both were passed about with generosity. Ecstasy! I can say no more about the food. However, we also learned how to use chopsticks effectively. Ellen had even told us that we use them better than some Chinese, even though we fall short of their meticulous grasp and form. I have been practicing them for all my meals that I make myself. At the restaurant, I even succeeded in the challenge that was given to me… picking up a coin laying flat on the table with the chopsticks. After two failed attempts, I got it! It was a surprisingly joyous accomplishment.

The days were superior to my usual ones back in Sacramento, but as all good things must come to an end so must this edition of “Aaron’s Blog: but not really a blog, more of a continuing article of lengthiness”. To all of you reading, “remember, no matter where you go, there you are.”-Confucius

#2

Wednesday June 9, 2010

So I have come to a precipice in my international doctrine. Holly, my friend and Asian counterpart, has suggested and in some way urged me to try Asian McDonalds *Queue dreadful “DUN DUN DUN”*. Those who know me know my absolute passion for all things food. Those who know me a little bit more know my love of a man named Anthony Bourdain. Tony travels the world eating foods that the locals enjoy and exploring indigenous rituals and sites. What he does not do is go to Outback Steakhouse, KFC, and Burger King ( really, when going abroad, neither should we). So… Here we are. Do I risk my short lived credibility as a world traveler on a McThai Chicken sandwich? Emphatically YES! I won’t waste my breath on the words “hear me out”. At first I thought, “nah, I can get that in America”....but Holly AND MY PROFESSOR insisted. Then I realized that some sort of perverted dogma on my part doesn't exclude me from enjoying an unauthentic American experience. In fact, it would be stupid of me not to go. What does the world view as McDonalds? As an international business major, I STUDIED THIS!!!! I know what our book said about American companies catering to other cultures, but now I get to see it first-hand; If I am here to take a class than I would be an idiot not to take a field trip. I have already drawn the marketing conclusion that a grape drink here maid by Minute Maid (Coca Cola Brand) contains small chunks of fruit (grape and aloe vera) because local Chinese drinks often use large straws to drink up various beans, fruit, rice balls, and other things (Thank you Professor Mikhailetchenko). This is a perfect example of how a MNC, or multinational company, markets to different peoples tastes and preferences. The true crime would be to come here with an objective and not let whatever happens in HK sweep me away to some unexpected locale or street market. I believe that if you come to a foreign country to only do what you want to do, then you have truly failed as a traveler.

With all that said and done, I would only go once and am NOT spending all my time with American “stuff” I can get at home. Even when I see a Maitre D outside what appears to be a classy KFC or Pizza Hut. A pleasant mix of authentic Hong Kong food at stores and restaurants, an Irish pub, a Hong Kong Horse Racing Track, Noodle stores, local street markets and shopping areas make up most of my time and a soon to come visit to an island where exotic seafood choices will be a plenty. On top of that I shop at the grocery on campus and buy the most authentic Chinese food stuffs I can for food. Well, I admit I bought peanut butter to go with some delicious Chinese bread, but it is truly an easy sandwich to store for a quick snack during our 4 HOUR CLASS! I digress. As most of you know I also love to cook. I am planning on making my own wonton soup with Mong Choi, snap peas, shrimp and chive wontons and a little hot chili sauce. I also may fry up some pork dumplings with some peas to go with the delicious Asian beers I have had the privilege of tasting. Tsing Tao and Harbin Lager (Chinese) and Singha (Thai) are both better than any major American beer and in HK are far cheaper. (un?)Fortunately, I have more important things to do than sit around and drink beer all day.

Later last night we went to the “Night Market”, “Jade Market”, a produce street market, meat market, etc. Together, Greg (GEOLOGIST) and I negotiated down a piece of real Jade and learned a little more about how to tell the real from fake. I also bought a “Little Red Book” from Maoist China. It is essentially the Atheist state’s bible of Mao which supports Becker’s thought that all systems in the world are religions… even those who claim not to be. Then we proceeded down to the street to a shabby little restaurant on the side of the market. This quaint restaurant turned out to have great reveiews by the local papers. Whoever said that frog tastes like chicken was not kidding. Once you get past the bones and cartilage the meat is quite tasty and smells a bit like sausage. I used chopsticks to strip the meat off the bones while some in our group opted to plop the entire section in their mouth and pick apart the bones then spit them out.

I feel that there may be a growing trend of me “leveling” with you at the end of my stories. A consistent stream of ‘serious messages’ about China and my ‘view on the world’ may grow old. I should probably just stop-

Today our Professor briefly talked about Aoi Sola. Japanese Porn Star, or AV Model, has established a presence in mainland China with her recently created Twitter account. Pornography is illegal in China because of the Chinese Communist Party. Her name twisted from the words “Blue” and “Sky” in Japanese play with my mind. I see the beautiful struggle of a man trying to get past the Chinese government's Great Firewall, no pun intended, just to tell "Blue Sky" that he is a fan, not just of her work, but of her unconscious rebellion against the govt. That is the real pornography.

Saturday June 5, 2010

Hong Kong, a once prominent gem in the English Empire now a fraternal twin of the Chinese government. I can think of no city that better deserves the title of “The Urban Jungle”. In the warm humid setting of the Hong Kong peninsula- concrete, glass, and steel shoot out of the heavy hilly rainforest surroundings like a jungle unto they’re own. Where there are not the sounds of thousands of little insects outside my bedroom window buzzing chirping and hissing, there are millions of people living their lives.

Apartment buildings everywhere; Twenty, thirty, forty + stories tall! Hundreds of them Everywhere! I have been in the country for less than 48 hours and have spent more than half my time wandering through the New Territories just north of the Island of Hong Kong. Sha Tin, Mong Kok, and the Sha Tin Buddhist temple are the destinations of today. I have already had the privilege to try abalone, gluttonous rice balls, and some of the best dim sum the world can offer. The malls here are a main hub of transit, social life, eating and shopping. They are also something alien to me. The exteriors lack that aesthetic appearance we are used to and remind me of something from the soviet block. Bland grey concrete outsides hide the metropolis of shopping and eating inside. 7 stories tall, the mall at Sha Tin was visited several times. Some for necessity, others for sociological immersion, and most important…Food! Maybe coming 7000 miles for Thai food may seem like a xenophobic choice to food, but when 5 students with no knowledge of the widely spoken Cantonese venture out into the cities on their own…give us a break. Oh and also, it was DELICIOUS! The mall also provided us with a commodity more important than internet, phone signal, and maybe even clean drinking water…TOILET PAPER. In mainland China it is not uncommon for a toilet to be no more than a hole in the ground with no TP to be found. The phrase “Be a man, use your hand” was to be found somewhere in our conversations about this. However, we are ever so fortunate to be in Hong Kong where a large portion of public restrooms are identical to the US… and while our dorm may supply no direct toilet paper in the bathrooms we managed to acquire some for about 2 US Dollars, 14 Hong Kong Dollars.

The food here on day one was Fantastic. Even going into a bakery with only pictures to guide our choice of food was great. Quickly recognizing my personal favorite BBQ pork buns, bao, I selected that, another random item and a drink that I did not recognize (for adventures sake). My goal, when hungry or thirsty, drink and eat thinks I don’t know and cannot read. So far this has yielded a sort of cheese danish type bun, Chinese sport drunk, various dumplings and meats, and Gluttonous Rice Balls. I am almost sure that a botched translation from Cantonese to English has lead to the titular word “gluttonous” used for tiny little rice ball dumplings that have been sweetened. But I kid you not, these little guys thrown in mango pudding with a mango sorbet, and – you guessed it - MORE FRESH MANGO… It was one of the best desserts I ever had.

While my attention deficit type of writing may digress here and there, I will end with what our first day started with. The night we arrived was the anniversary of Tiananmen Square. A statue that was modeled after the statue of liberty, but only about 3 or 4 meters high, was created in honor of this event and was moved to Hong Kong. At midnight this statue was placed at our University and a crowd of thousands showed up. The news clip the next day of these people working together to lift this statue upright was amazing. The last time I saw a news clip of a statue… was the tearing down of Saddam Hussein’s in Baghdad, but here people were lifting up what was essential a statement of the Chinese saying “give me liberty or give me death”. The lady was holding a torch and tome with the words “Liberty, Democracy, Justice, Human Rights” on it. It will never cease to amaze me how Hong Kong manages to express feelings and ideals that would get a man killed in mainland China, but here it is encouraged by professors and students. Education is and always will be the most important element of society. There is no freedom without it.